Christmas in Namibia
So as I write this I’m sitting in my tent literally a 5 minute walk from the cool Atlantic waters. I am on holiday in Swakopmund with about 30 friends who are also Peace Corps volunteers for both Christmas and New Years. Our campsite looks like a bit of a hoover ville scene littered with what I think the last count was 23 tents.
I think the phrase most often used over the last week has been “Where are we?” because this Namibia is starkly contrasting the one in which the majority of up live. Here there are huge mansions, coffee shops, book stores and even conveyor belts at the registers in the store. Also here it feels that being white I’m in in the majority and no longer the minority. It’s nice to have a break from the constant stares. One thing that I’ve noticed that bothers me is when you go to the grocery store or any place with service industry jobs the people working them are not white, even here where there seems to be a plethora of white people in this city. Quite often too people tend to ignore these people working as security guards or in the store because when I greet them they seem shocked, which is so backwards because that is one of the few things I understand about Namibian culture is that you greet everyone you come across as a sign of respect and in some weird way it works as you acknowledging their presence. The other thing that is alarming is to see all this money that is concentrated to a very small group of people who right now don’t seem to be doing much to assist their fellow citizens who honestly are struggling to get by. I’m not trying to suggest some plot to reallocate individual’s money, but I have yet to see many wealthy people spending any time in the village. I guess coming here has helped me to understand my host mom’s belief that “people of your color (white) have money and people of my color (black) have nothing.” The first time she told me that I was shocked and not quite sure how to reply and after I wanted to say no, it’s not a color thing but more so that I was born in America so my standard of living is different from someone born in Africa. But at first glance after coming here it does seem to provide me with some understanding for why she thinks this. But after spending more time you do see many wealthy black people as well though they are fewer and farther between.
Despite my alarm over the extreme inequality here this trip has been really nice! We have explored some of the Skeleton Coast and seem a ship wreck, seen a huge seal colony of over 2500 seals at Cape Cross, climbed Dune 7, the tallest dune in the world, seen huge salt pans, and seen hundreds of flamingos and spent every day of the last week on the beach. Not at all a bad Christmas!


Hi Lindsey:
I’ve been following your posts since you started them, as my friend Margie Duncan is among the PC volunteers who trained with your group in Namibia. She emailed us that she was going to be in Swakopmund for the Christmas holidays, too. Is she among your group of campers? If so, please give her a hug for me and tell her I said ‘hello.’ So glad you’ve had an opportunity to see some of the Skeleton Coast, including the seal colonies and the shipwrecks. My husband Don and I have done many trips to Africa to photograph the wildlife, but our trip to Namibia stands out as one of our favorites. The dunes are magnificent, though we tried climbing “Big Daddy,” and never quite made it to the top. I assume that the “Dune 7″ you refer to is Big Daddy, since we were told Big Daddy was the tallest dune in the world. Your remarks about the stark contrast in living conditions between the whites in cities like Swakopmund and Windhoek and the blacks in the outlying villages is sobering. As tourists, we never got to see how most of the black Namibians live. When you’re staying in the luxury lodges and tents, you are far removed from reality in Africa. Thank you for your keen observations, and for keeping up with your excellent blog. It is much appreciated and very enlightening.
WOW!
The dynamics are so interesting and so complicated and you capture them nicely…the whole issue of acknowledgment seems particularly fraught, perhaps especially for those of us who grew up in cultures where that is expected (such as Louisiana or Texas) and those who did not (Minnesota or Sweden)…anyway, happy holidays, all best for the new year, and thanks so very much for sharing this amazing journey you are on with us. Abrazos.
Lindsey,
Is good to hear from you. I am glad that you had a chance to go to Namibia and be back with civilization. Unfortunately, it does show the contrast between the universal battle between the people with wealth and the people without. No social system has been able to address this issue successfully. The answers to the problem are not so difficult but the willingness to implement is usually not there.
Nonetheless, I am happy that you have a respit from the meager conditions you and your Namibia family face on a daily basis.
It is hard to believe that four months have past since you left the conforts of home. We miss you and hope you could travel back for the holidays and be with your family. However, we are immensely proud for your courage and determination. I know this is openning your eyes to realities of life which you have a chance to change, even if it is in a small measure. The united contribution of all volunteers will make a big difference in the lives of many.
We love you and wish you a Happy and Safe and Successfull 2011.
Diana
Merry Christmas Lindsey! I miss you lots, though your experience sounds amazing. I’m reading your blog religiously, so don’t stop writing! Have a happy and safe new year!
Wow, that sounded like an great Christmas! wish I had a Christmas that good. Happy 2011!
-Nat & Nicho Mattner